Exploring Naples with my Teen: Sun, Stairs and Southern Italian Charm

A Sun-Kissed Adventure Through Southern Italy

If you're dreaming of vibrant streets, historic charm, fresh Mediterranean food, and unforgettable sunsets, then Naples should be high on your list—especially if you’re travelling with family. My teenage daughter and I recently set off on a summer escape to southern Italy, and what we discovered in just a few days has left us sun-kissed, full of flavour, and filled with memories we’ll cherish forever.

Arrival: A Midnight Welcome and 42 Steps to Paradise

We landed in Naples late at night—around 11:30 p.m.—and were greeted not by a concierge, but by 42 stone steps leading to our home for the week. It was a small but lovely apartment with a private garden tucked away like a secret, waiting to be discovered in the morning. And what a discovery it was! Sunshine poured into our secluded courtyard as we sipped coffee under a lemon tree—our very own Mediterranean sanctuary.

Day 1: Markets, Mopeds, and Mediterranean Heat

Our first full day started with a short walk to Mercato Pignasecca in the Montesanto area. If you love authentic, bustling neighbourhoods, this is where Naples truly comes alive. The streets are narrow, the buildings are historic and proud, and scooters zoom past with the kind of flair only Italians can pull off. It’s chaotic but charming—and oddly nostalgic.

The market was full of life, colour, and the kind of fresh produce that makes you want to cook everything from scratch.

We picked up aubergines, vibrant greens, and some of the freshest fish I’ve seen in a long time. As a healthcare professional, I couldn’t resist popping into a local community pharmacy, soaking in how accessible healthcare feels in everyday Italian life.

But take this advice seriously: July heat in Southern Italy is no joke. By 1:30 p.m., it was 34°C (93°F), and climbing the hilly streets back to our apartment nearly knocked me out.

Hydration, hats, and pacing are essential—especially if you're travelling with kids, teens or older adults.

Day 2: Slowing Down and Soaking in the Sunset

After the heatwave the day before, we opted for a gentler pace. We had a late breakfast of porridge with bananas and blueberries before venturing out during the cooler evening hours.

One highlight was taking the Funicolare (cable car) to Castel Sant’Elmo, perched on Vomero Hill. From there, we were treated to panoramic views of Naples at sunset.

It was one of those magical moments—golden skies over terracotta rooftops, the Bay of Naples in the distance, and Mount Vesuvius watching over the city like a silent guardian. A must-do for anyone visiting.

Day 3: Markets and Missteps—What to Know Before You Shop

As someone who grew up with the scent of Italian leather, I was excited to explore Mercato di Poggioreale, known for shoes and bags at bargain prices. We arrived early, full of hope. Sadly, what I found was a far cry from the quality I remembered. Much of the merchandise had changed—less leather, more fast fashion.

I later learned that changes in global manufacturing, the war in Ukraine, and COVID-19 had deeply affected local trade. Many factories closed or shifted their production to China. It was a humbling reminder of how global events ripple through local economies.

Thankfully, our guide recommended Mercatino di Antignano in Vomero—a charming flea market with a much better mix of quality clothing, shoes, jewellery, and local food.

It had a more authentic vibe and gave us a clearer glimpse into how Neapolitans really shop.

Travel Tip: If you're hoping to shop, skip Poggioreale and head to Antignano or one of the boutique-lined streets in Vomero instead.

Day 4: Via Chiaia – Fashion, Food, and La Dolce Vita

After the disappointing outdoor market hustle, we decided to treat ourselves to a more refined experience by exploring Via Chiaia, Naples’ fashion-forward shopping street. Think boutique-style shops with stylish clothing that’s modern, wearable, and surprisingly affordable.

We took our time browsing, bought some beautiful pieces, and rewarded ourselves with gelato and classic Neapolitan pizza under the soft glow of streetlights.

It was the perfect blend of elegance and everyday Italian life.

Final Thoughts: Why Naples Should Be on Your List

Naples is not for the faint-hearted—it’s raw, hot, noisy, and wonderfully alive. But beneath the chaos is a city full of soul. It’s where ancient history meets modern hustle, and where everyday moments—like dinner under a lemon tree—become core memories.

Here are some takeaways if you're planning a trip to Naples:

• 🌞 Travel Smart in Summer: Avoid midday outings in July/August. Start early or explore in the evenings.
• 🛍️ Open Markets are Hit or Miss: Ask locals where to go and skip outdated online reviews.
• 🌄 Sunsets Are Gold: Don’t miss the view from Castel Sant’Elmo.
• 🍋 Choose Authentic Stays: A small apartment with a garden gave us a true slice of Neapolitan life.
• 👟 Pack Walking Shoes: Expect stairs. Lots of stairs!!

This trip was more than a vacation. It was a mother-daughter bonding experience full of shared challenges, laughter, exploration, and delicious meals. If you’re looking to escape the usual tourist path and truly feel a city’s heartbeat, Naples is calling!